Great Outdoors
Untouched Beauty
Weaving between ancient redwoods, Nida and I are awestruck as we exit the freeway and enter a portal into Point Reyes, a world separate from ours. Our rental car is cowed by colossal trees that line Sir Francis Drake Road. Breaking the treeline, we are welcomed by the warm morning light into a land of open pastures and ocean views. Driving up and down the ridges of countless hills overlooking the sea, we spot tule elk grazing among cattle. One of the largest subspecies of elk, they have enormity and grace that contrast almost comically against the lumbering cows beside them.
When we finally reach the beach, we are immediately stunned by the serenity of the sparkling coastline. We are among only a few people sharing the vast shore which spreads to the horizon in either direction. Clear blue water stretches as far as the eye can see, and limestone cliffs jut out into the sand like the prows of enormous sailboats cutting into an earthen sea. I roll up my pant legs and wade into the icy water, feeling the silky sand sift between my toes. Seabirds are plentiful here, and I watch their antics for a while; the grey and white gulls squabble and quarrel over food and places to sit, speaking in a language I wish I knew. I decide to try to approach them, and only when I am nearly in the midst of their flock do they erupt into a swirling mass of calling birds. The magic of Point Reyes is most apparent here in this wild, untouched place. I am drowned in the serenity of its crashing waves and flapping wings. Time stands still here, and I am sitting on the precipice of another world, far away from the one I woke up in.
After we enjoy our share of Drake’s Beach, we meander up the coast, along the winding roads, through pastures and ranchlands. All the while, we see the ocean, a glittering vista of blue and white dancing off into the horizon, and we are periodically stopped by various wildlife sightings: ravens, coyotes, more tule elk. The bold and intriguing nature of these animals makes the scene feel fictional; where in other places, wildlife often feels inaccessible and foreign, the creatures here show no fear towards humans. Their familiarity further drags me into the mystery of this place, lending an air of fantasy to my experience.
The long road ends at an area labeled “Elephant Seal Overlook.” Intrigued, we park and leave the car, trekking down a meandering trail along the cliffside. Here, the water is so clear that one can see kelp forests growing under the waves. As we walk, we are greeted by the raucous calls of elephant seals. The trail ends in an overlook over a glittering pebble beach, and laying on the beach are around thirty of the sea giants. Some spar in the waves, others spin and flip in the water, and still many more lay limp on the beach, soaking up the sun’s rays. As I look out over the sprawling beach, a sense of completeness washes over me–our day has come to an end, and it is time to leave.
Souls brimming with the effervescent energy of Point Reyes, we begin the long, winding drive out of the park. Passing the cattle ranches, the idyllic beaches, and the behemoth redwoods, I am deeply touched by this escape from my own life, an otherworldly experience made special by intimate encounters with wildlife and peaceful moments of reflection. I will return soon; one day is not enough to experience this ethereal land, and today was only enough to scratch its surface.
Words & Photos: Niko Frost
